LVIV SINCE 240222
From 2pm this afternoon after early morning successes when our air defence shot down 100% of russian missiles over Ukraine, notifications came in on a Lviv Telegram channel about 100+ drones entering Ukraine.
The time now is 6pm. Drones have struck residential apartments in Sykhiv district and important historical buildings in Lviv old town around which I frequent from time to time. Homes next to the Bernardine Monastery and close to former Lontsky prison were hit and people have been hurt.
The courtyard of Lontsky prison is a critically important Holocaust site used by SBU employees as a car park (SBU HQ nearby was hit by a drone last week). Other locations in and around the city have also been damaged.
A few drones are still over Lviv as I write. To put things into context, bombing the Bernardine Monastery in Lviv equates to bombing York Minster or Lincoln Cathedral in England. It's common knowledge that priceless archives are stored somewhere therein and they may have been the intended target.
The area is designated UNESCO World Heritage: "L'viv - the Ensemble of the Historic Centre", but what protection can UNESCO really offer in the face of russian terrorists manually guiding suicide combat drones onto historical buildings? "Experts" will come, assess the damage, then return home. Utter waste of time.
We need adequate air defence over Lviv old town because if we have learned anything at all today, it's that our architectural heritage is woefully exposed. When will we see Rynok Square in flames? Air defence. RIGHT NOW.
While what has happened in Lviv today happens every day in other cities and regions, this is another new and unwanted reality - the first time our historic centre has been targeted. Ukraine and those who support Ukraine must respond accordingly.
The time now is 8pm, 948 drones attacked Ukrainian cities this afternoon - that's a record. Lviv people have always been rather lackadaisacal about drone warnings, especially in the day. Change something. I noticed two women from my building praying at the little shrine by our entrance this evening - that's a first.
The time now is 1015pm, Ukrainian Security Services (SBU) have reported that the main targets this afternoon were their facilities in Western Ukraine.
I'm going to pat myself on the back here because as stated at 6pm, the drone that exploded close to Lontsky prison was 30 metres from where SBU vehicles are parked and 300 metres from SBU HQ. The drone that almost hit the Bernardine Monastery targeted Lviv archives. They are guarded by soldiers and potentially SBU too.
Impact on tours in Lviv? As always, war drama attracts intrepid independent travellers and terrifies everyone else. Don't be afraid, the best of Lviv is safe underground.
War is ongoing and Lviv has adapted remarkably well to once unimaginable scenarios. Pre-pandemic life in Lviv was rather wonderful. Since then, almost two years of economic strife due to the collapse of tourism in much of Europe and now, four years of war. It's been a very long and challenging six years.
Skirmishes in Donbas since 2014 did not affect Lviv but a storm was coming. On 240222, it made landfall.
How many changes in Lviv since that fateful, first air alarm morning? The word "countless" comes to mind, but for newcomers to Lviv, the changes are difficult to spot. For those of us who reside here, what we have now is pure putinism.
putin wants to erase Ukraine as a sovereign nation. To do that he is attempting to occupy as much Ukrainian territory as he can, at any cost. His "three days to take Kyiv" and install a pro-kremlin stooge was 1,490 days ago. Now he has to overcome Ukraine's "Wall of Drones" that is nigh on impregnable.
The war has become attritional and putin is happy to kill upwards of 30,000 compatriots every month. At the current rate of russian losses, there will be no russian army left to fight in 18 months. A new "russian" army made up of Africans, Indians and North Koreans is a distinct possibility. Robots made in China another one.
Changes that are de facto worrying are the realities of russian metal overhead, namely drones and missiles. These come to Lviv two or three times per month and while we all know the safety protocols, fear is real.
Did I mention nuclear threats? Six loud explosions shattered a peaceful January evening and that was courtesy of an unarmed "Oreshnik", a new doomsday weapon that cannot be intercepted. If russia launches the armed variant towards NATO, meaning Lviv and Western Ukraine, who knows what will happen.
The story goes that putin ordered the Oreshnik strike on Lviv as revenge for a minor drone strike on one of his precious palaces. Pathetic. Other violent events have come to Lviv, too. Politically-motivated shootings in suburbs in broad daylight, ordered by the kremlin.
Road traffic accidents are on the rise due to stress and alcohol consumption. Random people are falling from balconies and setting fire to things. The risk of post-war civil war is high.
Demobilized or deserting soldiers have returned to Lviv with armaments and accidents have happened, 100,000 soldiers have yet to return. Aggressive mobilization of civilians is ongoing. Everyone and everything is on edge including under 25s, foreigners, household plants and pets. Stress is total.
These are the main changes in Lviv since 240222 and here's a few more of the less dramatic kind.
War graffiti is trending. A small army of food delivery couriers has appeared (thousands of Ukrainian men never leave home for fear of being "bussified" to the nearest bootcamp). New buses and trams have been given to Lviv by Europe. Random price hikes for basic food items are becoming a nuisance, a shopping basket costs 30% more in 2026 versus 2022.
If you intend to move to Lviv for a few months or longer, ready yourself for astronomical rents due to the influx of 200,000 refugees and sheer greed.
You may notice clusters of construction sites a short distance away from the city centre. These new buildings will meet demand for accommodation for those who can afford it.
Western Ukraine has had enough of everything russian. The potential passing of a law that will fine people for speaking russian in Lviv is real.
Unfortunately, kebab shops have replaced some of our beloved coffee houses. "Turkish entertainment" venues in Lviv old town seem to be reproducing. Fast food outlets are materializing on Rynok Square.
None of these intrusions detract from the beauty and charm of Lviv, but it's a disturbing trend that must be nipped in the bud or Lviv will end up like Kraków. No one wants that.
New retail outlets opened by Ukrainians not from Lviv are ten a penny and there are more chain stores. Local small business owners who founded traditional shops have either left Ukraine or they serve in the military. Extortionate rent (and just good old extortion) is routinely enforced by Lviv landowners.
Rents in Lviv, be they commercial or residential, are still uncontrolled. It's a free-for-all driven by unlicensed Lviv realtors (maklers). Many people have suffered severe economic hardship because of their illegal "business practices". I know a few who have been bussified.
Why are Lviv maklers so hated? They demand at least one month's rent as commission for brief chats and the sending of property photos on WhatsApp, photocopying a rental contract, and arranging viewings. Typically two or three, but often only one.
Many Ukrainians moved to Lviv from other regions to invest in property and more than a few of those have paid the authorities for exemption from conscription.
Lviv is full of students from all over Ukraine and many of them have parents in the military. Alcohol abuse in that community and the wider population at large is at an all time high.
What else. A disproportionate surge in the recruitment of law enforcement employees is ongoing (most sign up to avoid conscription).
On a personal note, some friendships have changed. Those who I did not expect to defend Ukraine have done so and received medals for eliminating russians. Those I believed would stand up and be counted have shown themselves to be cowards. Evaders on the run who are now ex-friends.
These are the changes, and I am sure that a part two will come given time. That millions of Ukrainian men have had their lives turned upside down has further destabilized an already chronically unstable country.
The numbers are still shocking: it is accepted that well over 200,000 Ukrainians have been killed since 240222 and over three million Ukrainian men fled their country to avoid serving (most of those are hiding in Germany).
Meanwhile in Disneyland, meetings between European leaders, American and russian delegations have become farcical. Changes will keep coming and Ukraine will survive all of them.
✍ by Pete Gr on March 25th, 2026.