Entering Ukraine has never been a cakewalk. There is and has likely always been a pervasive Soviet ambience at Ukrainian border checkpoints.

 Ukrainian border guards shoulder a lot of responsibility for $550 per month, marginally more than the average salary of a working adult in Ukraine. Polish border guards do little better.

 Older Ukrainian border guards, like their Polish counterparts, are to be taken with a pinch of salo. They think it's still 1990.

 Younger Ukrainian border guards have been known to raise a smile. All of them are obsessed with documents of every kind so prepare yours, hand it over, and wait for a stamp or two.

 Don't carry weapons (or parts thereof) across the border. Don't carry alcohol and tobacco across the border. Don't get involved in duty-free as you'll have to wait a long time. Poles will queue jump.

 To reach Ukraine you need to travel to Przemyśl, it's some eight or so miles from the Polish border village of Medyka. Przemyśl is an economically depressed but beautiful town that resembles Lviv.

 If you want to cross the border on foot, there are minibuses from behind Przemyśl railway station that will take you there for a few złoty. Departing every half hour or less, they are uncomfortable but journey time will not disturb.

 On the Ukrainian side, the first village is called Shehyni. Don't hang around, just get to Lviv as soon as possible as follows:

 Dodge all the illegal (and drunk) "taxi" drivers. Walk straight ahead then take the first left where you'll find a small bus station. You might have to wait a while for the Marshrutka that goes to Lviv for about $10. The ride will be bumpy and you'll sit with villagers all the way to the city.

 To get to Lviv from Przemyśl by rail is easy. You can jump on a train that will carry you east in about two hours (Ukraine is one hour ahead of Poland being EET rather than CET).

 Your passport will be stamped en route during an extended stop near the town of Mostyska. Tickets can be bought inside Przemyśl station for about $15. None of the staff speak English.

 The route in reverse, from Lviv to Przemyśl, can be managed from the Ukrainian Railways app "Ukrzaliznytsia". There is no Polish app nor any useful Polish websites about travelling to Ukraine.

 Crossing the border in a vehicle is ok but expect extended delays. The fastest way is by rail. The least intrusive way is on foot with two minibus connections as above.

 Reaching Ukraine from other towns and cities in east Europe is possible, I just write about the route I know best and have used on several hundred occasions.

 Przemyśl found fame in 2022 thanks to russia. Millions of Ukrainians fleeing russian aggression passed through the town. POTUS Joe Biden has visited Przemyśl, as have dozens of European leaders and envoys.

 Rzeszów airport, close to Przemyśl, has become the most important airport in the world being the logistics hub for NATO deliveries of military aid to Ukraine. The runway is protected by two Patriot surface-to-air missile (SAM) systems.

 If you overstay for up to three months, you will be fined 3,500 hryvnia on the border and banned from Ukraine for three months.

 If you overstay for more than three months, you will be fined more, 5,100 hryvnia, and banned from Ukraine for three months.

 The only way to re-enter Ukraine quickly is to return with a Visa (not cheap for British citizens) and a receipt confirming payment of the fine.


✍  by Pete G on April 14th, 2024.