by In Lviv Tours

From 2pm this afternoon after early morning successes when our air defence shot down 100% of russian missiles over Ukraine, notifications came in on a Lviv Telegram channel about 100+ drones entering Ukraine.

It's 6pm. Drones have struck residential apartments in Sykhiv district and important historical buildings in Lviv old town around which I frequent from time to time. Homes next to the Bernardine Monastery and close to former Lontsky prison were hit and people have been hurt.

The courtyard of Lontsky prison is a critically important Holocaust site used by SBU employees as a car park (SBU HQ nearby was hit by a drone last week). Other locations in and around the city have also been damaged.

A few drones are still over Lviv as I write. To put things into context, bombing the Bernardine Monastery in Lviv equates to bombing York Minster or Lincoln Cathedral in England. It's common knowledge that priceless archives are stored somewhere therein and they may have been the intended target.

The area is designated UNESCO World Heritage: "L'viv - the Ensemble of the Historic Centre", but what protection can UNESCO really offer in the face of russian terrorists manually guiding suicide combat drones onto historical buildings? "Experts" will come, assess the damage, then return home. Utter waste of time.

We need adequate air defence over Lviv old town because if we have learned anything at all today, it's that our architectural heritage is woefully exposed. When will we see Rynok Square in flames? Air defence. RIGHT NOW.

While what happened in Lviv today happens every day in other Ukrainian cities and regions, this is a new and unwanted reality for us, the first time our historic centre has been targeted. Ukraine and those who support Ukraine must respond accordingly.

It's 8pm, 948 drones attacked Ukrainian cities this afternoon. Lviv people have always been rather lackadaisacal about air alarms, especially in the day. Change something.

It's 1015pm and The Security Service of Ukraine (SBU) says that the targets today were their facilities in Western Ukraine.

I'm going to pat myself on the back here because as stated at 6pm, the drone that crashed close to Lontsky prison was 30 metres from where SBU vehicles are parked and 300 metres from SBU HQ. The drone that almost hit the Bernardine Monastery targeted Lviv archives. They are guarded by soldiers and potentially SBU too.

Impact on tours in Lviv? As always, war drama attracts intrepid independent travellers and terrifies everyone else. Don't be afraid, the best of Lviv is safe underground.

War is ongoing and Lviv has adapted remarkably well to once unimaginable scenarios. The Great Pandemic Swindle caused two years of dire economic strife due to the collapse of tourism and now, four years of war. It's been a diffcult six years. How many changes in Lviv since that fateful, first air alarm morning? The word countless comes to mind but for newcomers to Lviv, changes are difficult to spot. For those of us who reside here, what we have now is pure putinism.

putin wants to erase Ukraine as a sovereign nation. To do that he is attempting to occupy as much Ukrainian territory as he can, at any cost. His "three days to take Kyiv" and install a pro-kremlin stooge was 1,490 days ago. Now he has to overcome Ukraine's "Wall of Drones" that is nigh on impregnable.

The war has become attritional and putin is happy to kill upwards of 30,000 of his compatriots every month. At the current rate of russian losses, there will be no russian army left to fight in 18 months. A new "russian" army made up of Africans, Indians and North Koreans is a distinct possibility. Robots made in China another one.

Changes that are de facto worrying are the realities of russian metal overhead, meaning drones and missiles. These come to Lviv two or three times per month and while we have grown accustomed to such stupidity, fear is real.

Did I mention nuclear threats? Six loud explosions shattered a peaceful January evening courtesy of an unarmed "Oreshnik", a new doomsday weapon that cannot be intercepted. If russia launches the armed variant towards NATO, meaning Lviv and Western Ukraine, who knows what will happen. The story goes that putin ordered the Oreshnik "detonation" over Lviv as revenge for a minor drone strike on one of his precious palaces. Pathetic. Other violent events have come to Lviv too, not the least of which being executions in broad daylight ordered by the kremlin.

Road traffic accidents are on the rise due to stress and alcohol consumption. Random people are falling from balconies and setting fire to things. The risk of post-war civil war is high. Demobilized or deserting soldiers have returned to Lviv with weapons and accidents have happened, 100,000 soldiers have yet to return. Aggressive mobilization of civilians is ongoing. Everyone and everything is on edge including under 25s, foreigners, household plants and goldfish.

These are the main changes in Lviv since 240222 and here's a few more of the less dramatic kind.

War graffiti is trending. A small army of food delivery couriers has appeared because thousands of Ukrainian men never go out for fear of being "bussified" to the nearest bootcamp. New buses and trams have been given to Lviv by Europe. Random price hikes for basic food items are becoming a nuisance, expect to pay 30% more in 2026 than in 2022. If you intend to move to Lviv for a few months or longer, ready yourself for astronomical rents due to the influx of 250,000 refugees and sheer greed. You may notice clusters of construction sites a short distance away from the city centre, these new buildings will meet demand for accommodation for those who can afford it. Western Ukraine has had enough of everything russian, the potential passing of a law that will fine people for speaking russian in Lviv is real. Kebab shops have replaced some of our beloved coffee houses. "Turkish entertainment" venues in Lviv old town seem to be reproducing. Fast food outlets are materializing on Rynok Square. New retail outlets opened by Ukrainians not from Lviv are ten a penny and there are more chain stores. Local small business owners who founded traditional shops have either left Ukraine or serve in the military. Lviv is full of students from all over Ukraine and many of them have parents in the military. Alcohol abuse in that community and the wider population at large is at an all time high. What else. A disproportionate surge in the recruitment of law enforcement types is ongoing (most sign up to avoid conscription).

On a personal note, some friendships have changed. Those who I did not expect to defend Ukraine have done so and received medals for eliminating russians. Those I believed would stand up and be counted have shown themselves to be cowards, evaders who are now ex-friends.

That millions of Ukrainian men have had their lives turned upside down has further destabilized an already chronically unstable country. The numbers are shocking. It is widely claimed that well over 200,000 Ukrainians have been killed since 240222, and that over three million Ukrainian men have fled their country to avoid military service, with most residing in Germany.

Meanwhile in Disneyland, meetings between European leaders, American and russian delegations have become farcical. Changes will keep coming and Ukraine will survive all of them.

✍ March 25th, 2026.